The following guidelines are intended as a roadmap for both the novice and experienced installer. The guidelines include: Selecting a Site, Placement, Mulching, Watering, Fertilization, and Weed Control. Following these steps, and maintaining close attention to detail, will aid in proper rooting and future growth of your trees.
Planting and Care Guidelines:
- Select a site: Full Sunlight with little competition from existing trees is best. A popular choice is to plant in a Greenfield in a straight row 40' from an edge. Space 40' apart.
- Excavation: Ball and Burlap Trees: Plant new trees higher than the existing grade, a good rule of thumb is to plant with the top of the root ball an inch high for each caliper inch of the tree. For example, a 3" caliper tree needs to be planted 3" higher than the existing grade. With this in mind, dig a hole only as deep as necessary, the root ball should rest on undisturbed soil. This is important because a hole that is dug too deep and then backfilled with loose dirt will allow the tree to settle and dirt to gather too high up on the trunk, eventually rotting the bark and girdling the tree. The width of the hole is at least 1.5-2 times the diameter of the root ball (a 3" tree has a 32" wide root ball, 32"x 1.5 = 48" wide hole). This is important to give the new roots plenty of loose dirt to grow into. Poor soils may require a larger hole to allow the tree roots to spread. Bare Root Trees: Plant bare root trees to the same depth as the existing soil line on the tree (Usually 8-12"). The width of the hole should be twice the width of the existing roots to allow for loose soil for the roots to grow into. If in doubt dig a hole 24" wide and backfill with good loose topsoil.
- Place the tree in the excavated hole and backfill with just enough soil to hold the tree straight and steady. Remove the nylon straps and the burlap from the top of the root ball. Bend down or cut off the wire basket to the second ring of wire from the top. Do not remove the tree from the remaining burlap bag and wire, if you do so you risk destroying the structure of the root ball and damaging the roots of the tree. (See Photo 1)
- Backfill: Start filling the hole with water and backfilling with good loose topsoil. Continue backfilling until the soil is 4-6" higher than the root ball and water is running out of the top of the hole. (See Photo 2) Do not put any soil on top of the root ball to avoid girdling the tree. The backfill should create a mound around the perimeter of the tree that leaves a saucer like indentation to help with future watering. The mound will eventually settle away. (See Photo 3)
- Mulch the tree with 3-4" of shredded mulch or straw to help maintain moisture and reduce competition from weeds. Avoid fresh sawdust as the decomposition process robs the soil of necessary nitrogen.
- Bare root trees will require staking. Ball and Burlap trees may require guying in high wind prone areas. Normally the weight of the root ball is enough to keep the tree from leaning.
- Watering: Planting in the dormant season when rainfall is abundant may help you avoid additional watering. 'Watering In' the tree at planting reduces the air pockets in the topsoil backfill that may hamper root growth. Supplemental watering during the first year after planting may be required if rainfall isn't sufficient. Actual water required will vary with soil type and planting location. An inch of rainfall every 10-14 days should be sufficient. Ample water will help your tree grow vigorously. A thick layer of mulch will help retain soil moisture.
- Fertilization: Fertilize in the spring and again in the midsummer with a complete fertilizer. We recommend a fertilizer with a nutrient ratio of 3-1-2 (Nitrogen-Phosphorus-Potassium). Do not fertilize if rainfall is lacking. A slow release fertilizer may be applied annually in the spring.
- Weed Control: Reduce competition from weeds by spraying a contact herbicide (Roundup®) 2-3' around the tree. Avoid contacting the bark of the tree with the herbicide. Spray as often as needed. A thick layer of mulch will help keep weeds suppressed.
- Pruning: Prune annually in the winter to maintain a pyramidal shape. Limb up trees as they grow larger to allow access under the branches. Maintain a single trunk up to the top of the tree, remove 'double leaders'. Pruning is more important on small trees, maintaining good structure will encourage better growth and longevity. (See Photo 4)
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| Photo #1 | Photo #2 |
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| Photo #3 | Photo #4 |